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Thats in the newer one, i want to know whats in the old one.

Hi Dave100e
My '79 Z28 has a 355 ci (5.8L) V8 and a Turbo350 3 speed Trans with a B&M Holeshot 3K stall. I blew the positraction with a 300hp nitrous dump off the line - bad mistake - so now it runs with an open diff (New posi in the garage waiting to go in, eventually).

Superb collection.

I remember being a wee Nipper, playing Gran Turismo on the playstation, for hours Id buy Camaros and Tune and tweak them within an inch of their life

Welcome to the site, if you need any help getting around, just ask any of us mods.

You can start a thread, saying hi to others on the site, let them know how you got here etc.. just click on the link below. Have a look around the rest of the site as well, see if anything else takes your fancy. And once again... Really Cool/Rare Cars..awesome


Click Me....

Does the stall thingy mean the torque converter holds 3k before spinning the wheels when on the brake so you can get a better start or is it to do with when the converter has the least 'slip' if that makes sense? I dont know too much about autobox's. Just how they work etc but nothing about making them faster.

Now I feel really old

Thanks for the greetz, I'm already prowling the site... Tons of great stuff.

Every time I try and explain "stall" I usually confuse even more, but I'll have a go.
OK, a torque converter is there to actually multiply torque from the engine.
On a standard car, (camaro in this case) the vehicle ticks over around 400/500rpm, and can stay still while in drive usually upto 800rpm, max maybe 1000rpm while you are standing on the brakes - with both feet and both hands-...Any more than this - if the brakes hold out would stall the engine.

When you modify the engine, the real power would come in around 3K - 3.5K and peak around 6.8K, so a standard converter would be fighting to move the car before you are "on the cam".

So by the time you are in the power range, 2 seconds or maybe more have gone by and you are only now making power.

So the only way to get the power to the ground is to have a converter that is "loose" into that power band. This isn't to say that the car wont move until you are revving 3K+, but it allows slippage up to that range.

Now the brakes cannot hold the car while this is going on - while standing as hard as possible on them, the rear wheels would be burning rubber and the pad linnings - not a good situation.

So what is normally fitted to the car is a "line lock", this in effect applies the brakes to the front whhels only, leaving the rear wheels free to warm up the tyres and not destroy the brakes. So when the track lights turn green the line lock releases and all hell breaks loose..........

Without a line lock, you can just "stomp" on the gas and "flash stall" and try to keep your pants clean.....
So usually people "walk" them off the line and then "stand on it" when grip permits.

The bottom line is, a higher than stock stall will allow you to get into your power range off the line, and not loose seconds working your way up there.

Whole other story if the car is "bottle fed" as well, then you need other computer wizardry to assist. I will do a write up on this as my (silver Z28) build progresses

I hope this makes some sense to you, top marks if you read this to the end

awesome cars there mate

as someone has already, its nice to see some more rare cars on the site

While I've 10mins free, thought I would put up my next installment of mod's to my Z28.
OK, these are just bolt on's, but enhance the rigidity of the car, limiting flex under hard acceleration. All are UMI Performance products. All mine were powder coated silver to match the car.
The first one was the Shock Brace, well we all know what that's for.
Second was the Three Point Subframe connector, F Bodies are known for their flexing.
Third & fourth was the adjustable LCA's & Panhard bar, these are to enable the race rear to be centered.
I did have a UMI torque arm as well, but had to sell it as the fabbed 9" has different mountings, so has a MidWest one installed.
Few pics underneath to show what I'm talking about. I'll get to the real interesting stuff & specs soon.

OK, some gen on my fabbed 9" rear.
The MidWest fabricated 9-inch rearends are individually hand built and designed to work on street cars with ORY full exhaust, duals, and even hard-core drag cars. They are truely hand fabricated & triangulated in design so are much stronger than the stock stamped housings and are made with all steel components. Again powder coated silver to match the car

SPECS:

Moser 33 spline axles
Strange modular iron centre with Strange 3.70 gears
CAD Design Components
Laser Cut
CNC folds
DOM Seamless tubing
Billet Housing Ends
Fully gusseted design (Internal bulkhead gussets and axle tube go all the way to the carrier studs, fully welded around axle tube, face plate, and housing backside)
Widest housing design (Increased strength with or without brace. 4-5" of axle tube is welded to the faceplate)
4-channel ABS
This assembly include chrome moly adjustable torque arm - tunnel or transmission crossmemeber mount (Torque arm uses aircraft grade, Chrome Moly, Teflon lined heim joint at the front to allow suspension articulation without binding).
Tunnel mount crossmember to allow for my stainless steel cat-back and includes the driveshaft loop.
The torque arm is mounted to the crossmember with a 4-hole height adjustable pivot link
This version pivot lilnk is mounted to the crossmember with a Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing to eliminate noise
All bracetry retains stock mounting locations and geometry
4 position adjustable relocator style lower control arm brackets
stock style mounted anti-sway bar brackets welded
brake hose brackets welded, e-brake cable bracket installed
brake line clips welded on
housing vent
all grade 8 hardware
ARP housing studs

Any more progress?

Its all in !
Well almost.
The job has stopped because of a few items.

1. The original damper bolt is too short.
2. Cant find a fitting for the inlet manifold (with an internal thread so the original can screw in)
3. A blanking bolt for the rear of the manifold (not using the emmissions)
4. The dipstick tube wont fit because of the racing sump.
5. Need a flexi gearbox diptsick & tube (on order from the states).

I've emailed the engine builder in USA for the other fittings, just waiting for a reply !!!

The workshop are having trouble with the A/F fittings !!!

I'm ready for my suicide pill - was hoping to be running by now.

Any help on the above would be appreciated....

Gear Box Dipstick & tube is clearing customs in UK ...

Other bits needed getting shipped today ($90.00) Holy Sh*T, £55.00 for three crappy bits.

Hopefully have them ready for the workshop to fit early next week...

£55!!!

What does it weigh? 55kg?!

Pics

Theres a guy who races an IROC - or whatever with us

....he has very little luck with it Hes always talking about long block / short block, and all the special parts used, but it just never seems to last

One bolt and a couple of pipe fittings... Few ounces at most..
This was a case of temporary insanity, I was so desparate for the parts to finish the job, I asked him to send them expedited..
Guess he went out and chartered a seat on a jumbo. Dont know how I'm going to explain this to the missus... Reckon it's beans on toast all next week for me.

I'll post pics of the bits when I get them (no laughing now!)